Berner Oberland
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I love the thrill of walking on a narrow ledge with a thousand feet drop beside me. I love the beauty of the alps. I love riding in cog-wheel trains, chair lifts and cable cars above a beautiful landscape. I am not the kind of mountain climber who traverse vertical cliffs with climbing equipment. I like it when the mountains are prepared for easy access, and I enjoy a restaurant on every hilltop. |
than a week, then the best places to stay in are Interlaken in Switzerland and Zell-am-Zee in Austria. For a shorter holiday, places like Grindelwald or Zermatt may be better. In those places, you live closer to the mountain rides, but the selection is not as large. Interlaken has the largest selection of cog-wheel trains. All in all, the Interlaken area, also known as Berner Oberland, is the place I recommend, if you can afford it. Holidays in the Swiss alps are not recommended if you are on a tight budget. Allow 250 dollars/euros per day.
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If you choose Berner Oberland as your holiday destination, I recommend that you stay in the central town of the area, Interlaken. And I recommend that you stay in a hotel close to the Interlaken Ost railway station, like Carlton, Europa or Hotel du Lac. Of these, Hotel du Lac is closest to the railway station and is a very enjoyable hotel.
I strongly recommend that you buy the Regional Pass, which provides unlimited |
rides on many of the best mountain rides for a somewhat more reasonable price. With the regional pass, you get a reliable and comprehensive time table. The Austrain Alps have no similar Regional Pass, and their time tables are less reliable, in Austria (but not in Switzerland) you must always call the mountain ride by phone and ask if they are really running in the morning when planning the day's excursion. Most people, who visit the Berner Oberland, go to the highest and most expensive places, like Jungfraujoch (Europe's highest railway station) and Schilthorn. These places are not free on the regional pass, and they are not worth their high price. Below are some places I do recommend. Important: The temperature goes down about 1 degree Centigrade for each 100 meters. Remember to bring sweaters, rain coats and gloves when you go up to the really high hills. |
RothornThe best of all the cog-wheel trains is the train from Brienz to Rothorn Kulm. It is driven by nineteenth century steam engines and offers the most breathtaking scenery and thrills. Come well in advance, you may have to queue half-an-hour to get a seat, especially if you go up before noon.
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FirstThe small-cabin ride from Grindelwald to First offers a long ride above the landscape which changes from a lushy valley to a tree-less alp. From First you can walk up into the alps or down on a narrow ledge traversing a steep cliff. First was formerly a chair lift, but very dissapointingly, they have rebuilt it into a small cabin ride, losing much of its previous charm. |
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View from the top of the First cable car ride.
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cog-wheel trains Slow, sometimes incredibly steep slopes, travels in zig-zag on ledges on the mountain side. In Berner Oberland, you can find them to Kleine Scheidegg, Jungfraujoch, Rothorn and Schunige Platte. Rothorn is best, Jungfraujoch of least interest, it goes almost all the way in a tunnel. |
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wire-pulled train Not as nicely adjusted to the landscape as the cog-wheel trains. In Berner Oberland, you can find them in Beatenbucht, Harder Kulm, Niesen, Mürren, Lauterbrunnen and other places. |
large cabin rides Often crowded and you have to stand, schedules with long breaks sometimes. |
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small cabin rides Better views during the ride than from large cabin rides, but the plastic windows distort the clearness of the mountain views, as compared to chair lifts. |
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You glide and feel almost like a bird. The best experience, but somewhat more risky. In Berner Oberland, I have found them only at Kiental, Lungern and Kandersteg. Earlier, First and Niderhorn also had chair lifts, but sadly, they have converted to small cabin rides. |
chair lifts (German: Sesselbahn) |